What is arbutin? Alpha and beta explained
Arbutin is a plant compound, made of hydroquinone joined to a glucose sugar, found in bearberry, pears and wheat. Cosmetics use it because it acts on the enzyme involved in skin pigment. It comes in two forms, alpha and beta, and EU safety scientists have set separate limits for each. It isn't the same thing as hydroquinone.
What it is
A 2021 review of arbutin describes it as a compound of hydroquinone and glucose. The beta form, usually just called arbutin, occurs mainly in plants such as bearberry, pears and wheat. The alpha form is made from hydroquinone and a different form of glucose.
Alpha vs beta
You'll see alpha-arbutin advertised as the stronger and more stable form, but the picture is less tidy than that. The review says lab studies disagree on which form inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase more strongly, and it suggests the differences may come down to the enzyme source, test conditions or hydroquinone contamination. If a product leans hard on "alpha" as proof of superiority, keep in mind that this hasn't been settled.
What it's used for
Like kojic acid, arbutin targets tyrosinase, which is involved in producing melanin. The review covers a handful of human studies. They're small or short, and many involve high strengths or plant extracts that contain other ingredients. So we'd describe the evidence in people as limited.
Why hydroquinone keeps coming up
Hydroquinone is a much stronger ingredient. It's been banned in EU cosmetics since 2001, according to the same review, because of safety concerns with prolonged exposure. Since arbutin contains a hydroquinone unit, people reasonably ask whether one turns into the other. The review's answer is that it's unresolved, and that hydroquinone can form to varying degrees depending on how a product is stored, and possibly through skin microbes or UV exposure. It also calls dermatitis from arbutin rare, while advising caution.
What safety reviewers say
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has looked at this closely. Its final opinion considers alpha-arbutin safe at up to 2 per cent in face creams and 0.5 per cent in body lotions, and beta-arbutin at up to 7 per cent in face creams, and that using them together at those levels is also safe. Its condition is that hydroquinone stays as low as possible, at no more than unavoidable traces.
Arbutin in our jars
Of our jars, Hyaluronic Acid contains it: it's sixth on its label, listed simply as Arbutin. The shop page describes it as coming from bearberry leaf and says it "helps tone look more even". The label doesn't state whether it's alpha or beta, or the percentage. Its source suggests the beta form, but we can't confirm that from the label alone.
What this means for you:
- Store it properly. Since storage can affect these ingredients, keep the lid tight and the powder cool and dry, and use it within 12 months of opening. See looking after the powder.
- Patch test first, and stop if your skin reacts.
- Be realistic. We don't claim a mask will fade anything. Sun protection and time matter more for tone, as our piece on dark spots explains.
If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, please check with your doctor. The 2022 review of topical products in pregnancy says there's no firm recommendation on arbutin yet. See skincare in pregnancy.
Questions
Is arbutin the same as hydroquinone?
No. Arbutin is hydroquinone joined to a glucose sugar, so it's a different compound. Whether some of it converts in use is unresolved, and EU safety scientists say hydroquinone in products with arbutin should stay at unavoidable trace levels.
Is alpha-arbutin better than beta-arbutin?
That isn't settled. Lab studies disagree on which form acts more strongly on the enzyme involved in pigment, and there's little good evidence comparing them on people.
This is general information, not medical advice. If you're worried about your skin, see your GP or a skin specialist.
Sources
- Arbutin as a skin depigmenting agent with antimelanogenic and antioxidant properties, Boo, Antioxidants, 2021
- Safety of alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin in cosmetic products, EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety
- Skin changes and safety profile of topical products during pregnancy, Putra, Jusuf and Dewi, Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2022