What does niacinamide do for skin?
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that's common in moisturisers. It's been studied for how it supports the skin's barrier, for oiliness, and for the look of uneven tone, and most people tolerate it well. Most of that research uses leave-on products every day for weeks. And it isn't a sunscreen.
What it is
DermNet describes nicotinamide, also called niacinamide, as the water-soluble, active form of vitamin B3. It's in many moisturisers, serums and sunscreens.
What the research has looked at
DermNet summarises the evidence, and these are the findings most relevant to everyday skincare:
- Barrier and hydration. Moisturisers containing it have been reported to improve barrier function, and one study linked it to more ceramides, the fats that help skin hold water.
- Oiliness. A 2 per cent moisturiser was reported to reduce facial oil over 4 to 6 weeks.
- The look of ageing skin. Clinical studies have reported improvements in the look of fine lines, blotchiness and sallowness. A key one was a 12-week study of 50 women using 5 per cent niacinamide, sponsored by a major skincare company.
DermNet's overall view is that more research is needed to clarify its value. Note what those studies have in common: daily use, a known strength, and weeks of use. A mask you wear for 15 minutes a couple of times a week isn't the same thing, so don't assume you'd get the same results.
What it won't do
DermNet is direct on this one: nicotinamide doesn't work as a sunscreen and doesn't prevent sunburn. You'll see it in sunscreens, but it isn't what provides the protection. Keep up your SPF.
Who it suits
DermNet says topical nicotinamide is well tolerated, and that it can often be used by people who can't tolerate retinoids or fruit acids. That doesn't mean nobody reacts: stop if you get stinging or redness, particularly with high-strength serums. If a higher percentage bothers you, it's fine to go lower.
Can you use niacinamide with vitamin C?
You've probably seen the warning not to. It traces back to older chemistry suggesting the two can react to form nicotinic acid, the form of vitamin B3 linked to flushing. According to formulators' notes from an ingredient supplier, that conversion is negligible in normal cosmetic conditions. We couldn't find a study showing a problem on real skin, but we also didn't find a large study proving the combination is better. The honest summary is that the old rule isn't well supported.
You'll see the two together on our own Hyaluronic Acid label, which lists niacinamide and ascorbyl glucoside, a form of vitamin C. If you layer separate serums and your skin stings, the simple fix is to use one in the morning and the other at night.
Niacinamide in our jars
It's second on the label of Hyaluronic Acid, and the shop page says it "supports the skin barrier and helps tone look more even". Remember the point about wear time. We don't sell a mask as a route to lasting change in tone. If that's what you're after, start with what's causing it, and see our page on uneven-looking tone for what a mask can and can't offer.
Questions
Is niacinamide the same as vitamin B3?
It's one form of vitamin B3. Nicotinic acid, or niacin, is another form, and it's the one known for causing flushing when taken as a supplement.
Can I use niacinamide with retinol?
Usually, yes. It's a common pairing. DermNet notes that niacinamide is generally well tolerated. If you're on a prescribed retinoid, check with whoever prescribed it.
Does niacinamide cause flushing?
Most people don't flush from niacinamide on the skin. Flushing is linked with nicotinic acid, a different form of vitamin B3. If a product makes you flush or sting, stop using it.
This is general information, not medical advice. If you're worried about your skin, see your GP or a skin specialist.
Sources
- Nicotinamide, DermNet
- Niacinamide compatibility in skincare formulation, Grand Ingredients, an ingredient supplier